Invisible Bind-Off
Also known as "Kitchener Stitch" or "grafting". This is the magical method for joining two parts so that the seam becomes completely invisible.
What is Kitchener Stitch?
Kitchener stitch is a technique where you use a tapestry needle to "knit" together two sets of active stitches (stitches that are still on the needle). When done correctly, a new row of stitches is created that looks exactly like it was knitted, resulting in a completely seamless transition.
Why learn this technique?
- No lumps: No thick seam on the inside of the garment.
- Perfect for socks: The most common and best method for closing the sock toe.
- Top of hats: Gives a very neat finish at the top.
- Shoulders: Can be used to join shoulders completely invisibly.
How to do it (The Mantra)
This is a technique that requires concentration the first few times you do it. Hold two needles parallel with the tips pointing to the right. You sew from right to left.
The mantra for Kitchener Stitch:
Front needle: Knit off, purl on.
Back needle: Purl off, knit on.
Front Needle: Knit OFF
Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on front needle knitwise, draw yarn through, and drop stitch off.
Front Needle: Purl ON
Insert needle into next stitch on front needle purlwise, draw yarn through, and leave stitch on needle.
Back Needle: Purl OFF
Insert needle into first stitch on back needle purlwise, draw yarn through, and drop stitch off.
Back Needle: Knit ON
Insert needle into next stitch on back needle knitwise, draw yarn through, and leave stitch on needle.
Kitchener stitch mantra: Knit off, purl on for the front needle; Purl off, knit on for the back needle.
- Preparation: Cut the yarn (good length) and thread it onto a tapestry needle.
- Setup row (worked only once): Insert the tapestry needle purlwise into the first stitch on the front needle and leave it on. Then insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the back needle and leave it on. Without this row the first stitch on each needle gets only one pass of yarn instead of two, and the join shows right there.
- Front needle: Insert the needle into the first stitch as if to knit. Pull the yarn through and lift the stitch off the needle.
- Front needle: Insert the needle into the next stitch as if to purl. Pull the yarn through and let the stitch stay on the needle.
- Back needle: Insert the needle into the first stitch as if to purl. Pull the yarn through and lift the stitch off the needle.
- Back needle: Insert the needle into the next stitch as if to knit. Pull the yarn through and let the stitch stay on the needle.
- Repeat: Continue this rhythm until all stitches are used up.
Tips for even result
Don't tighten the yarn too much right away! Feel free to sew 5-10 stitches quite loosely, and then go back and tighten them carefully with the tip of the needle or a knitting needle so that they get the same size as the other stitches in your knitting.
See how it's done
Sometimes it's easier to see the technique in action. Here is a good video showing how to join with Kitchener stitch (invisible bind-off):
Video from VeryPink Knits
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my seam come out uneven?
The most common cause is tightening the yarn too much too soon. Sew 5-10 stitches loosely first, then go back and adjust the tension afterward.
Can I use invisible bind-off on anything other than stockinette stitch?
The classic technique is designed for stockinette stitch. If you're joining garter stitch or ribbing, the grafting pattern needs to be adapted accordingly.
How much yarn do I need?
Plan for roughly 3-4 times the width of the seam you're sewing, plus a bit extra to be safe.
Do the stitches need to be on knitting needles, or can I use stitch holders?
Either works. The important thing is that the stitches are secured and can't unravel while you sew.
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