Turning the heel
Turning the heel is the shaping of a sock's heel so that it curves under the foot, transitioning a straight tube into a comfortable sock shape.
Explanation
Turning the heel is the magical moment in sock knitting where the fabric transitions from a straight tube into a three-dimensional shape that fits around the foot. This is achieved using short rows (such as German Short Rows or traditional wrap-and-turn short rows), where you only knit across the center heel stitches, gradually incorporating the side stitches on each row until the heel curve is formed. After turning the heel, you typically pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap to continue knitting the foot.
Also known as: Heel turn
The turn itself
Turning the heel is what changes a sock from a straight tube into something that follows the foot. It is worked with short rows across the heel stitches: you work partway, turn, work back, and each turn takes in one more stitch than the last.
The result is a small cup that sits under the heel. It is the most talked-about part of sock knitting, and the part that seems most mysterious until you have done it once.
Follow the pattern literally
Heel turns are written as exact instructions because the stitch count changes with every row. Do not try to reason out the logic as you go — work the row as written and count afterwards.
After the turn, stitches are picked up along the sides of the heel flap and the sock becomes a tube again.
Common mistakes
- Miscounting stitches partway through the turn.
- Picking up too few stitches along the heel flap afterwards, leaving holes at the corners.
Keywords
- turn heel
- heel shaping
- socks
- heel turn
- short row heel
Frequently asked questions
Why is the heel turn so hard?
It is not hard, but it cannot be knitted on autopilot because the stitch count changes every row. Follow the pattern literally.
Are there socks without a heel turn?
Yes. Afterthought heels and short-row heels are worked differently, but most classic socks use a turned heel.