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Category: Basics

Cast-on

The essential first step in any knitting project: creating the initial row of stitches on the needle to begin your work.

Explanation

Cast-on is the process of creating the first stitches on the knitting needle. There are many cast-on methods, each with its advantages. Long-tail cast-on turns up in most of the patterns we read, and gives an elastic edge. Italian cast-on gives an extra elastic edge perfect for ribbing. Cable cast-on provides a firm edge. The choice of cast-on method depends on what you are knitting and the type of edge you want.

Also known as: CO, Casting on

The cast-on matters more than you would think

Your cast-on determines how much the lower edge can stretch, and a tight cast-on is one of the most common reasons a sweater will not go over the head or a sock binds across the instep. The long-tail cast-on is the default choice and gives a tidy, moderately elastic edge. For ribbing that needs real stretch, the Italian cast-on gives a noticeably better result.

If the stitches will be picked up again later — at a sock toe, or at a join — use a provisional cast-on in waste yarn, which is unpicked when you need the live stitches.

How much yarn do you need?

The long-tail cast-on needs a tail long enough for the entire cast-on. A workable rule of thumb is three times the width you are casting on, plus a margin. For a large stitch count, cast on using both ends of the ball instead, and you never have to estimate.

Choosing a cast-on for the edge you need

Cast-ons are not interchangeable, and picking by habit is the most common reason a hem or cuff fails. Long-tail is the sensible default: reasonably stretchy, tidy, and fast once your hands know it. Cable cast-on gives a firmer, more defined edge that suits button bands and anywhere you want the edge to hold its shape.

Where the edge has to stretch over a body part — sock cuffs, hat brims, top-down necklines — a standard long-tail is often too tight, and the usual fix of casting on over two needles held together produces a sloppy edge rather than an elastic one. A tubular or Italian cast-on is the real answer there. For anything you will later unravel to knit in the other direction, use a provisional cast-on.

If you tend to cast on tightly, use a needle one size larger for the cast-on row and switch back on the first row. It is the simplest way to build in slack.

Common mistakes

  • Casting on too tightly, so the edge cannot stretch with the rest of the fabric.
  • Underestimating the tail and running out just short of the last stitch.
  • Casting on the right number of stitches but twisting them when joining to work in the round.

Keywords

  • cast-on
  • casting on
  • starting knitting

Frequently asked questions

Which cast-on should a beginner learn first?

The long-tail cast-on. It is fast, durable and suitable for almost everything. Learn the Italian cast-on second, once you start working ribbing.

How do I avoid twisting the cast-on when joining in the round?

Make sure every stitch has its bottom edge facing the center before you join, and check the whole way around. A twisted join cannot be fixed later — it has to be ripped out.

How long should the tail be for a long-tail cast-on?

About 1 in (2.5 cm) per stitch, plus 6 in (15 cm) to weave in. If you would rather not estimate, wrap the yarn around the needle ten times, measure that length, and multiply for the number of stitches you need. Running out three stitches from the end is a rite of passage, but it is avoidable.

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