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Category: Techniques

Stockinette Stitch

The most fundamental knitting pattern: knit all stitches on the right side and purl on the wrong side. Creates a smooth, classic fabric surface.

Explanation

Stockinette stitch is the most basic and widely used knitting pattern. When knitting flat, you knit all stitches on the right side and purl all stitches on the wrong side. When knitting in the round, you simply knit every stitch in every round. Stockinette stitch provides a smooth, flat surface on the right side and a 'bumpy' surface on the wrong side. The fabric has a tendency to curl at the edges.

Also known as: Stocking stitch, St st

How it is made

Working in the round, you knit every single round. Working flat, you alternate a knit row and a purl row. Both produce the same fabric: the smooth face with rows of Vs.

The back, made of horizontal bars, is called reverse stockinette and is used deliberately in some designs.

Why it curls

Stockinette always curls: the sides roll toward the back and the top and bottom roll toward the front. It happens because the two faces have different tension, and it is not something you did wrong.

The remedy is a border that lies flat — garter, ribbing or seed stitch — or blocking, which reduces the curl considerably.

Where it is used

Stockinette is the most-used fabric in knitting because it is fast, sits evenly and shows the yarn color and structure best.

It is also the fabric that exposes uneven gauge most clearly — every single stitch is visible. So stockinette is at once the easiest fabric to knit and the hardest to knit beautifully.

To avoid curl on a scarf, choose garter or seed stitch instead. Stockinette without a border will always roll.

Common mistakes

  • Knitting a scarf in plain stockinette with no border.
  • Measuring gauge on unblocked stockinette that is still curling.

Keywords

  • stockinette
  • stocking stitch
  • jersey

Frequently asked questions

Why does my stockinette curl?

Because the front and back have different tension. It is normal. A flat border or blocking solves it.

Is stockinette the same as stocking stitch?

Yes. Stocking stitch is the British term for the same fabric.

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