Saddle Shoulder
Saddle shoulder is a sleeve construction where a narrow strip of the sleeve continues over the shoulder, forming part of the yoke between neck and underarm.
Explanation
In a saddle shoulder construction, the sleeve is extended with a narrow 'saddle' or strip that continues over the shoulder itself and meets the neckline, rather than the sleeve stopping right at the shoulder edge as with a set-in sleeve. This creates a distinct structural line over the shoulder and a good combination of freedom of movement and tailored fit. The technique is somewhat more advanced to calculate than drop shoulder, but is often used in classic men's sweaters and traditional patterns for a defined, structured look.
Also known as: Saddle
A strap across the shoulder
A saddle shoulder has a rectangular panel running across the shoulder from neck to sleeve, like a saddle. The sleeve is worked up and continues into this panel, while front and back attach along its sides.
The construction leaves a clear horizontal line across the shoulder, often emphasized with cables or texture.
Fit and use
The saddle distributes weight well and gives a sturdy shoulder, which makes it popular for heavy sweaters and classic menswear designs.
It is less common in modern patterns than raglan, partly because it needs more planning and partly because it is rarely worked seamlessly.
Common mistakes
- Working the saddle too long, which makes the neck opening too wide.
- Forgetting that the sleeve has to be finished before the shoulder can be worked.
Keywords
- saddle shoulder
- shoulder construction
- sleeve saddle
Frequently asked questions
What is a saddle shoulder?
A rectangular panel running across the shoulder from neck to sleeve, which the sleeve continues into.
Is it common today?
Less common than raglan and circular yokes, but still used in classic designs and where a defined shoulder line is wanted.