The contiguous method, developed by Susie Myers, is a way of knitting top-down sweaters with a shoulder that looks like a set-in sleeve – without sewing a seam.
Source: Ravelry — Contiguous by Susie Myers. She describes the method herself as a way of knitting the shoulder seams and sleeve caps from the top down in one continuous row from the start; first published March 2013.
Instead of traditional raglan, where you increase evenly on all four marker points, the contiguous method uses two separate increase phases: first a horizontal shoulder increase, and then a vertical sleeve cap increase. The result is a naturally sloping shoulder line and a shaped sleeve cap reminiscent of set-in sleeves.
We'd reach for the contiguous method for:
- Fitted sweaters – where the fit around the shoulders matters most
- Classic pullovers – with a clean, horizontal shoulder line
- Anyone who wants to avoid seams – knitted entirely in one piece top-down
A Norwegian version of this page is available on Strikketips.no
What you need
The contiguous method doesn't require a lot of extra equipment, but a few tools are essential for keeping track of the different increase phases.
Which construction method is right for you?
Top-down sweaters can be constructed in several ways. Here is how three of them compare:
| Method | Shoulder line | Strengths | Things to consider |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raglan | Distinct diagonal from neck to sleeve | Easy to calculate, suits looser fits; we'd suggest it for a first top-down sweater | Limited shoulder shaping |
| Contiguous This guide | Horizontal shoulder line with a shaped sleeve cap | Seamless, shaped shoulder line | Requires more attention while knitting |
| Set-in sleeves | Rounded, tailored sleeve cap | Classic tailored look | Body and sleeves are knit separately and seamed together |
See the contiguous method in action (video)
Watching it done can make the two phases easier to follow.
Step-by-step guide to the contiguous method
Shoulder Seam (Shoulder Width)
Increases are worked on the OUTSIDE of the markers (into front and back) on every round. The shoulder stitches between the markers stay the same, which makes the straight shoulder line.
Sleeve Cap Shaping
Increases move to the INSIDE of the markers (into the sleeve stitches). This shapes a rounded sleeve cap with the look of a set-in sleeve, knit from the top down.
Armhole & Separating
Some patterns add a few rounds of increases on both body and sleeves here. Then the sleeve stitches go on waste yarn, underarm stitches are cast on, and the body is joined in the round.
Shoulder increases, then the sleeve cap, then separating at the armhole — worked with M1L/M1R increases on either side of the markers.
- 01
Shoulder Increases (Phase 1)
You increase on the outside of the shoulder markers on every round until the desired shoulder width is reached. This creates the horizontal line that looks like a shoulder seam. Measure as you knit against a garment that fits you.
- Place two markers (color A) between the shoulder and sleeve stitches.
- Increase using M1L and M1R on every round – one on the outside of each shoulder marker.
- Measure the shoulder width regularly. Stop once you reach the target measurement.
- 02
Sleeve Cap (Phase 2)
Once the shoulders are wide enough, the increase pattern changes. Now you increase on the inside of the markers, typically every other round. This creates the sleeve cap, which grows down the arm and shapes itself over the shoulder.
- Place two new markers (color B) on the inside of the sleeve stitches.
- Increase M1L and M1R on the inside of each marker, every other round.
- Continue until the sleeve cap is deep enough for comfortable arm movement.
Some patterns combine phase 2 with a few raglan-like rounds toward the end to add extra width under the arm.
- 03
Armholes and separating
When the sleeve cap is deep enough, the yoke is completed. Many patterns add a few extra rounds where increases are worked on both the body and sleeves to ensure a comfortable fit under the arm. Then, underarm stitches are cast on, and the work is separated into the body and sleeves.
- Place the sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holders.
- Cast on new stitches under the arm (cast on) to connect the front and back of the body.
- Knit the body stitches and continue working the body in the round.
- Return to the sleeve stitches and work the sleeves separately down to the cuffs.
Tips for smooth transitions and neat stitch pickup
The underarm transition is often where a contiguous sweater can look a bit messy. What we do about it:
Common mistakes – and how to avoid them
Solution: Measure the shoulder width against a sweater you know fits, before switching to phase 2.
Solution: Note down the round number every time you complete an increase round, or use a physical row counter.
Solution: Always knit a swatch and wash it before casting on.
Solution: Write down exactly how many stitches you have increased on each side after each phase, and mark it clearly in your pattern notes.
Frequently asked questions about the contiguous method
Is the contiguous method hard to learn?
The method requires some focus on the first few rounds, but once you understand the logic behind the two increase phases, it is relatively straightforward to knit. We'd try it on a small test piece before a full sweater.
Can I use the contiguous method on any pattern?
You can adapt many top-down patterns, but it requires a fair amount of calculation if the pattern was originally written for raglan or a round yoke. There are patterns written specifically for the contiguous construction, and those are easiest to start with.
What is the difference between contiguous and raglan?
Raglan increases evenly on all four marker points, creating a distinct diagonal line from neck to sleeve. Contiguous, on the other hand, uses two separate increase phases: first increasing horizontally on the outside of the shoulder markers (phase 1), then increasing on the inside to shape the sleeve cap itself (phase 2). The result looks like a set-in sleeve but is worked in one piece.
How many stitch markers do I need?
You need four stitch markers in total – two for the shoulder increases and two for the sleeve increases. We use two different colors so we can tell the shoulder and sleeve markers apart when changing the increase pattern.
What do I do if the shoulders become too wide?
Measure the shoulder width along the way against a garment you know fits you. Since you are knitting top-down, you can rip back a few rounds and start phase 2 earlier. That is one of the advantages of knitting top-down: you can adjust as you go.
Do I need a gauge swatch for the contiguous method?
Yes. The method uses set increase frequencies to reach the shoulder width and armhole depth, so if your gauge is off, the shoulders will be off too.