Master the Contiguous Method

The contiguous method, developed by Susie Myers, is a brilliant technique for knitting top-down sweaters with a shoulder construction that looks like it's sewn in – without having to sew a single seam.

Instead of traditional raglan, where you increase evenly on all four marker points, the contiguous method uses two separate increase phases: first a horizontal shoulder increase, and then a vertical sleeve cap increase. The result is a naturally sloping shoulder line and a shaped sleeve cap reminiscent of set-in sleeves.

The contiguous method works especially well for:

Fitted sweaters – where the fit around the shoulders is critical
Classic pullovers – with a clean, horizontal shoulder line
Garments for narrower shoulders – avoiding the bulk or boxy look of raglan
Anyone who wants to avoid seams – knitted entirely in one piece top-down

What you need

The contiguous method doesn't require a lot of extra equipment, but a few tools are essential for keeping track of the different increase phases.

Circular needle Long enough to hold all the stitches. A flexible cable circular needle is recommended.

Stitch markers – 2 colors Four markers in total. Use one color for the shoulder and another for the sleeve – this is crucial!

Tape measure To check the shoulder width along the way against a garment that fits.

Row counter Keep track of the round numbers between increases – especially important in phase 1.

Pen and paper Jot down stitch counts per section after each round of increases.

Which construction method is right for you?

Top-down sweaters can be constructed in several ways. Here is a comparison of the three most common methods:

Raglan

The simplest method to knit and calculate. Creates a distinct, diagonal line from neck to sleeve.

Easy to calculate
Great for loose-fitting garments
Beginner-friendly

Limited shoulder shaping

Recommended

Contiguous

The best of both worlds – seamless knitting with a horizontal shoulder line and a shaped sleeve cap.

100% seamless
Professional fit
Natural shoulder line

Requires more attention

Set-in Sleeves

The most tailored construction featuring a distinct, rounded sleeve cap.

Optimal custom fit
Classic tailored look

Body and sleeves are knit separately and seamed together

See the contiguous method in action (video)

It is often much easier to learn the technique by seeing it performed in practice.

Step-by-step guide to the contiguous method

Step 1

Shoulder Increases (Phase 1)

You increase on the outside of the shoulder markers on every round until the desired shoulder width is reached. This creates the horizontal line that looks like a shoulder seam. Make sure to measure as you knit against a well-fitting garment!

Place two markers (color A) between the shoulder and sleeve stitches.
Increase using M1L and M1R on every round – one on the outside of each shoulder marker.
Measure the shoulder width regularly. Stop once you reach the target measurement.

Shoulder increases with the contiguous method – the horizontal shoulder seam line taking shape — Phase 1: The shoulder increases create the characteristic horizontal shoulder seam line.

Step 2

Sleeve Cap (Phase 2)

Once the shoulders are wide enough, the increase pattern changes. Now you increase on the inside of the markers, typically every other round. This creates the actual sleeve cap, which grows down the arm and shapes itself naturally over the shoulder.

Place two new markers (color B) on the inside of the sleeve stitches.
Increase M1L and M1R on the inside of each marker, every other round.
Continue until the sleeve cap is deep enough for comfortable arm movement.

Some patterns combine phase 2 with a few raglan-like rounds towards the end to add extra width under the arm.

Why two phases?

The two-step technique is the secret behind the set-in look. Phase 1 spreads the shoulder flat – just like a sewn shoulder seam. Phase 2 builds the sleeve cap downwards, which creates a natural, rounded shape around the shoulder joint.

The result is a tailored fit that raglan can never match – without requiring you to sew a single seam.

Step 3

Armholes and separating

When the sleeve cap is deep enough, the yoke is completed. Many patterns add a few extra rounds where increases are worked on both the body and sleeves to ensure a comfortable fit under the arm. Then, underarm stitches are cast on, and the work is separated into the body and sleeves.

Place the sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holders.
Cast on new stitches under the arm (cast on) to connect the front and back of the body.
Knit the body stitches and continue working in the round – the body is now ready!
Return to the sleeve stitches and work the sleeves separately down to the cuffs.

Tips for smooth transitions and neat stitch pickup

The underarm transition is often where a contiguous sweater can look a bit messy. These techniques will make the transition as seamless as promised:

Close up the underarm hole

Cast on one extra stitch at each end of the underarm cast-on, and knit/purl it together with the neighboring stitch on the next round. This closes the "hole" that easily forms at the separation point.

Use color-coded markers

Use locking stitch markers in different colors – one color for the shoulder markers (phase 1) and another for the sleeve markers (phase 2). It's easy to mix them up when switching between steps.

Try on the garment before separating

Try the sweater on before separating the work into the body and sleeves. This is the entire point of top-down knitting – you can adjust the shoulder width while it's still easy to rip back a few rounds.

Use M1L and M1R

Always work your increases as M1L and M1R (left- and right-leaning increases) instead of a simple backward loop. The increase lines will mirror each other beautifully on each side of the markers.

Common mistakes – and how to avoid them

Not switching increase pattern in time

The most common mistake is continuing to increase on the outside of the markers (shoulder increases) for too long, causing the shoulders to become too wide before the sleeve cap has room to be shaped.

Solution: Measure the shoulder width against a sweater you know fits, before switching to phase 2.

Asymmetrical shoulders

This usually happens when you lose track of the rounds between increases.

Solution: Note down the round number every time you complete an increase round, or use a physical row counter.

Skipping the gauge swatch

Because the contiguous method relies on precise increase frequencies to hit the correct shoulder width, accurate stitch gauge is even more critical than usual.

Solution: Always knit a swatch and wash it before casting on.

Forgetting to record increase points

Since contiguous has multiple simultaneous increase zones, it is easy to lose track of your progress.

Solution: Write down exactly how many stitches you have increased on each side after each phase, and mark it clearly in your pattern notes.

Ready for the next challenge?

Now that you can shape shoulders perfectly with the contiguous method, you need an edge finish that matches. Italian bind-off provides the most professional and elastic edge for ribbing on necklines and cuffs.

Invisible, stretchy edge
Perfect for necklines and cuffs
Step-by-step with video

Learn Italian Bind-Off →

Frequently asked questions about the contiguous method

Is the contiguous method hard to learn?

The method requires some focus on the first few rounds, but once you understand the logic behind the two increase phases, it is relatively straightforward to knit. Most experienced knitters master it after one or two swatches or test projects.

Can I use the contiguous method on any pattern?

You can adapt many top-down patterns, but it requires a fair amount of calculation if the pattern was originally written for raglan or a round yoke. There are patterns written specifically for the contiguous construction, and those are easiest to start with.

What is the difference between contiguous and raglan?

Raglan increases evenly on all four marker points, creating a distinct diagonal line from neck to sleeve. Contiguous, on the other hand, uses two separate increase phases: first increasing horizontally on the outside of the shoulder markers (phase 1), then increasing on the inside to shape the sleeve cap itself (phase 2). The result looks like a set-in sleeve but is worked in one piece.

How many stitch markers do I need?

You need four stitch markers in total – two for the shoulder increases and two for the sleeve increases. It is highly recommended to use two different colors so you can easily distinguish between the shoulder and sleeve phases when changing the increase pattern.

What do I do if the shoulders become too wide?

Measure the shoulder width along the way against a garment you know fits you. Since you are knitting top-down, you can rip back a few rounds and start phase 2 earlier. This is one of the great advantages of top-down constructions: you can adjust in real-time.

Do I need a gauge swatch for the contiguous method?

Yes, and it is even more important than usual. The contiguous method relies on precise increase frequencies to achieve the correct shoulder width and armhole depth. Even a small deviation in gauge can result in a significantly incorrect fit in the shoulder area.