How to Read a Knitting Pattern: The Complete Guide
Do knitting patterns look like hieroglyphics or a secret code? Here you'll learn everything you need to decode abbreviations, charts, parentheses, and symbols step-by-step.
Summary: A knitting pattern is a step-by-step recipe written with standardized abbreviations (like K for knit and P for purl). To succeed, always knit a swatch to verify your gauge, highlight the numbers for your size, and follow the instructions row by row.
What is a Knitting Pattern?
A knitting pattern is essentially a detailed recipe for turning a strand of yarn into a finished item of clothing or accessory using knitting needles. To keep patterns from becoming excessively long and repetitive, designers use a standardized shorthand composed of abbreviations, symbols, and charts.
While it may look intimidating when you first glance at a pattern, you will quickly discover that almost all of them follow the exact same logic and structure. Once you know the basic codes, you can knit just about anything!
The Golden Rule: Read the Whole Pattern First
The absolute most important thing you should do before casting on a single stitch is to read through the entire pattern from start to finish.
Many beginners make the mistake of jumping straight into row one, only to discover halfway through the project that they were supposed to perform a special decrease or increase at the same time they were working a pattern. Reading ahead gives you a clear mental map of the construction and saves you hours of ripping out work.
The Anatomy of a Knitting Pattern
Most knitting patterns are divided into the following sections:
1. Sizing and Measurements
This lists the finished measurements of the garment (such as bust circumference, sleeve length, and total length) along with the body measurements they fit. Make sure to consider ease – how much larger the garment is compared to your actual body.
2. Yarn and Materials
Describes the yarn used by the designer (original yarn), its weight, yardage, and the number of skeins/balls or grams required for each size. If you want to swap the yarn, you can easily calculate how much you need using our yarn substitution calculator.
3. Needles and Notions
Specifies the needle sizes you'll likely need (e.g., circular needles 3.5 mm and 4 mm). Keep in mind that these are only veiling recommendations – your personal knitting style (tension) decides what size needle you must actually use to get the correct gauge.
4. Gauge (Strikkefasthet)
This is the most critical number in the whole pattern! It is written as the number of stitches (and sometimes rows) per 4x4 inches (10x10 cm) in a specified stitch pattern (e.g., 22 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch).
5. Instructions
The step-by-step recipe. The work is usually split into sections like Body, Sleeves, Yoke, and Finishing.
Common Knitting Abbreviations You Must Know
To save space, knitting patterns use short abbreviations for almost every action. Here is an overview of the most common English abbreviations you will encounter:
The basic unit of knitting.
Putting the initial stitches onto the needle.
Finishing the edge so the stitches don't unravel.
Stitch a knit/plain stitch.
Stitch a purl stitch (the back of a knit stitch).
Bring the yarn forward to create a loop/hole (lace or increase).
A right-leaning decrease (knitting two stitches as one).
A left-leaning decrease (slip two stitches knitwise, then knit together).
Adding or reducing the number of stitches on the needle.
Indicates if you are working on the outside (RS) or inside (WS) of the garment.
Transfer a stitch to the right needle without knitting it.
Indicates repeating a section of instructions.
Are you looking for more detailed translations of English terms into Norwegian? Check out our English Knitting Patterns Guide which has a comprehensive bilingual dictionary.
How to Read a Knitting Chart
Many patterns use a visual grid (chart) to represent lace, colorwork, or texture. Think of a chart as a map of your knitting as seen from the front.
Core Rules for Reading Knitting Charts:
- Each square equals one stitch. Each horizontal row represents a row or round of knitting.
- Read from bottom to top: You always start on row 1 at the very bottom and work upwards.
- Knitting in the round: Read every row from right to left.
- Knitting flat: Read right-side rows (odd numbers: 1, 3, 5...) from right to left. Read wrong-side rows (even numbers: 2, 4, 6...) from left to right.
- Check the legend: Symbol definitions are not universal. An empty box usually means knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side, but always check the legend on your specific pattern!
How to Read Parentheses, Brackets, and Asterisks
Knitting patterns use parentheses, brackets, and asterisks to group instructions together and keep text brief:
1. Sizing Numbers in Parentheses
When a pattern is written for multiple sizes (e.g., S, M, L, XL), stitch counts will look like this: CO 80 (88) 96 (104) sts.
The first number (80) applies to the smallest size (S), the second (88) to the Medium size, and so on.
Tip: Go through the pattern with a highlighter before you start, and circle all the numbers that apply to your specific size. This prevents accidentally knitting the wrong size!
2. Asterisks *...* — Repeats
Asterisks mark a sequence of stitches that must be repeated across the row or round.
Example: K2, *P1, K3*, repeat from * to * to end.
This means you start by knitting 2 stitches. Then, you repeat the sequence \"purl 1, knit 3\" over and over until you reach the end of the row.
3. Parentheses/Brackets with Repetition Counts
Sometimes a sequence is enclosed in parentheses or brackets, followed by a specific instruction.
Example: [K1, P1] 5 times, K10.
This means you knit 1, purl 1, and repeat that grouping five times total (working over 10 stitches), then knit the next 10 stitches.
Gauge: The Absolute Key to a Perfect Fit
You can decode the pattern perfectly, but if you ignore gauge, your sweater could easily end up fitting a doll or a giant.
Gauge is the measurement of how many stitches and rows fit into a 4x4 inch (10x10 cm) area. If the pattern calls for 22 stitches, and your swatch only has 20 stitches, your stitches are too large and the garment will end up too big. If your swatch has 24 stitches, the garment will be too small.
Do not trust the needle size recommended in the pattern. Everyone knits with a different tension! Knit a swatch of about 6x6 inches (15x15 cm) using your selected yarn and needles. Wash and block the swatch, let it dry flat, and then use a ruler or gauge tool to count the stitches.
Have too many stitches? Switch to a larger needle. Too few stitches? Switch to a smaller needle. Read more in our complete guide all about gauge and swatches.
5 Common Mistakes Beginners Make
To save you from frustration, here are the most common pitfalls to watch out for:
1. Skipping the Swatch
This is mistake number one. It takes only 30 minutes to knit a swatch, but it can save you 50 hours of wasted effort if the garment ends up not fitting.
2. Confusing Stitches and Rows/Rounds
Remember that width is decided by the stitch count (sts), while height/length is usually decided by rows/rounds (rnds) or inches/cm. Do not mix them up.
3. Ignoring 'At the Same Time' Instructions
The phrase 'at the same time' indicates you must perform two actions concurrently, like shaping armholes while also doing neck decreases. Always read a few rows ahead of where you are.
4. Reading the Wrong Sizing Column
It is very easy to lose your place and read the stitch count for a different size. Use a highlighter to mark your size consistently before you start.
5. Losing Count of Rows
When knitting a pattern or doing decreases every 4th row, it is easy to forget where you are. Use our digital row counter to keep track easily.
Useful Tools for Reading Patterns
These interactive tools will make your knitting life much easier when measuring and preparing your project:
Gauge Calculator
Calculate exactly how to adjust if your swatch density doesn't match the pattern.
Row Counter
Keep track of rows, repeats, and increases/decreases directly on your phone or computer.
Yarn Substitution Calculator
Easily calculate the amount of yarn needed when swapping the original yarn for an alternative.
Conclusion: Practice Makes Perfect!
Reading knitting patterns can feel overwhelming at first, but it gets much easier with experience. Do not try to understand the entire pattern in detail before you start – just take the very first row, do what it asks, and then move on to the next.
Before you know it, you'll be reading patterns as easily as reading your favorite book. Happy knitting!
How do I know which size to knit?
Measure yourself (or the person you're knitting for) around the chest, and compare it with the measurements listed under the 'Sizes' section of the pattern. Be sure to consider ease (how loose or tight the garment is designed to fit).
What do the numbers in parentheses mean, e.g., '10 (12) 14 sts'?
These numbers represent the stitch or row count for each individual size, usually ordered from smallest to largest (e.g., S, M, L). It is highly recommended to highlight the numbers for your size throughout the pattern before you start.
What does 'repeat from * to *' mean?
This tells you to repeat the sequence of stitches between the two asterisks. For example, '*K1, P1*, repeat from * to * to end' means you knit 1, purl 1, and repeat that sequence all the way to the end of the row/round.
Why does my knitting chart look different from the finished work?
A chart is a visual grid representing the right side of the work, where each square equals one stitch. You usually read charts from bottom to top, and from right to left when knitting in the round. Always check the legend, as symbols can vary between designers.
What should I do if I don't understand an abbreviation?
Most patterns include an abbreviation list at the beginning or end. If it is missing or unclear, you can check our Fiber Lexicon, search our site dictionary, or search YouTube for a quick video demonstration of that specific technique.